WINE AND GRAPE HISTORY

Grape growing and winemaking first developed in the Shoalhaven at the time of early European settlement, with fluctuating success, influenced by local apathy and scepticism as well as boundless enthusiasm from some farmers. There is a general acceptance based on much anecdotal and circumstantial evidence that Alexander Berry, the first land grantee in the region, planted wine grapes at his Coolangatta Estate c1850s-1860s. This vineyard may not have been successful but records reveal that there were several other vineyards scattered throughout the Shoalhaven in the nineteenth century and each thrived for a time. For example, by 1864 Andre Cottrel de Mestre had established a vineyard of six acres, the Beerung Vineyard, (now the site of the Vineyard Golf Course Worrigee), where he successfully grew Isabella and Shiraz grapes. The vineyard, later named Warra Warra Vineyard, was operated for about 45 years, passing through several owners. In 1875 there were two other vineyards in the area, approximately six acres each, operated by landowners Rehardt and Burrill. Jean (Johann) Host also operated a vineyard in Broughton Vale, near Berry, from c1850s to 1870s.

The last owner of Warra Warra Vineyard, Fred Morison, improved the condition and performance of the grapevines considerably and often received high public praise for his red wine, which he sold in his Nowra restaurant. Morison proved that good wine could be locally produced. Unfortunately his example was not followed by the local farmers and consequently grape growing and winemaking ceased in the area when Morison sold his vineyard in 1910. The new owners dismantled and cleared it preferring to plant potatoes instead. It would be almost seventy years before another vineyard was established in the Shoalhaven district, this time near Berry.

The first of the “New Age” family operated wineries on the South Coast, Jasper Valley Wines, was established, just south of Berry, in 1976 by Sidney and Daisy Mitchell, restaurateurs whose ultimate aim was to produce distinctive quality wines from grapes grown on their own land. They planted 5 acres of grapevines on an old dairy farm and their first vintage in 1978 produced four tonnes. Tonnage increased yearly, they processed their own wines and opened a winery for cellar sales in 1979. The varieties grown at this time were Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Rhine Riesling, Semillon, Chardonnay and Traminer. The present owners, the Wyeth family, purchased the business in 1988. In 1990 five acres of vines, which were on a neighbour’s property, were dug up as the land was required for other purposes. At present the vineyard is comprised of two acres only of Shiraz, Chardonnay and Verdelho and the wine is made off site at Vickery’s at Badgery’s Creek.

In the late 1970s Alan and Miriam Bamfield , restaurateurs from Sydney and then of Berry, had planted several acres of Shiraz, Semillon and Cabernet Sauvignon grapevines on a small property in the Berry township. In the winter of 1984, the Bamfields bought an old dairy farm called Silos, a property at Jaspers Brush which had also been a market garden during the 1950s and 1960s, producing corn and beans. Alan transferred 1200 grapevines from his Berry property to Silos and also planted Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc. Many of these vines are still growing and being harvested today. Despite the sceptics and the climate, Alan proved that grapes could be grown anywhere, by adapting to the conditions and growing suitable varieties. Cellar door sales were started in 1985 with wine from imported grapes. Soon after Alan started to make his own wine on the premises and also converted two old feed sheds into a restaurant.

The present owners of Silos Estate Winery, Kate Khoury and Gaynor Sims, bought the business in 1995 and have raised the standard of the facilities and the vineyard to a professional level. The quality of their wines has reached award-winning status and continues to improve the popular image of locally grown and produced wines. The winemaking facilities have been improved considerably and been modernised using current technology. During the late 1990s they were the only winemakers in the region. Cellar door sales are now a fulltime service. There are currently four hectares planted with Chardonnay, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Shiraz, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. Bamfield’s vision has been confirmed with Kate and Gaynor’s successful development of a boutique winery, which has just won its first award - a bronze medal for their Oaked Chardonnay at the 2000 Cowra show.

History repeats itself at Coolangatta Estate Wines, established by the Bishop family on part of Alexander Berry’s old property, an old disused dairy farm, next to his old historic village, which was restored in the 1960s by the Bishop family. Greg Bishop, son of the owner Colin Bishop, saw the potential for wine grape growing and sought advice from Tyrell’s in the Hunter Valley and the owners of Jasper Valley Wines. By observing the latter’s vintage, he was convinced that one could grow good wine grapes in this climate, a conviction confirmed when, in 1990, Tyrell’s made a very good wine from the first vintage of his 1988 Sauvignon Blanc planting and have continued to make Coolangatta’s wine ever since.

Every year Greg Bishop has planted at least one acre of different varieties, starting in 1989 with Chardonnay. He has since planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot, Verdelho and Chambourcin and in 2000 added three acres of Semillon, Verdelho and Sangiovese, bringing the area of land under vine to 7.5 hectares.

Coolangatta’s 1991 Alexander Berry Chardonnay won a gold medal at the 1997 National Wine Show of Australia in Canberra, proving that premium wines could be grown in the Shoalhaven. Coolangatta recently won their 200th award for premium wines. Included in the list are four bonze, two silver and one gold medals at the 2000 NSW Small Winemakers Wine Show.

Another successful vineyard, Cambewarra Estate Winery, was first planted with Chambourcin in 1991 by Geoff and Louise Cole, with much support and advice from Greg Bishop. The property was once a dairy farm and now is planted with 6.5 hectares of Chambourcin, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Verdelho. It is a very successful boutique winery, which has won numerous awards. It won the first Boutique Trophy, first National Trophy and first gold medal for the Shoalhaven. All wines are made by Tamburlaine in the Hunter Valley.

Two commercial winemaking facilities established in the region in the last two years are Bundewallah Estate at Berry owned by Robert Alotta, and Fern Valley Wines at Termeil, near Ulladulla, owned by Max and Glenda Staniford. In 1996 –97 the Stanifords planted two acres of Chardonnay, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chambourcin and opened for cellar door sales in late 1999. The Fern Gully 1999 Chambourcin won the award for Best Red Wine at the Milton-Ulladulla Wine Show in 2000.

During 1998 a number of vineyards were planted throughout the region. Brian and Narelle Jackson converted an old dairy farm at Gerringong into Crooked River Wines. and planted Chardonnay, Verdelho, Arneis, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chambourcin, Ruby Cabernet, Merlot and Sangiovese. Crooked River has recently completed a 250 tonnes-capacity winery. A further winery is under development, by Eric and Joan Swarbrick, at Seven Mile Vineyard, close to Seven Mile Beach.

Other significant recent plantings have been by Ted Humphries (8 hectares at South Nowra under the name of Humphries Wines) and Jim Kladis, (6 hectares at Kladis Estate near Wandandian, north of Ulladulla).

In 1995 regional grape growers formed the Shoalhaven Grapegrowers Association with the objectives of:

• Viticultural and oenological education of its members
• Cooperation with related industries and relevant government bodies, and
• Promotion of the growing of grapes and the making of wine in the region and its recognition as a viticultural area.